Pump Up the Volume: Hair Volumizing Techniques from Courtney von Berg
By Keune | September 28th, 2017
There’s no better way to bring a smile to your client’s face than by adding some major volume to their hair. Here, Keune Academy Trainer Courtney von Berg provides the gamut of hair volumizing techniques, including blowdrying, back-brushing, product application and roller how-tos to get that pumped-up, party-ready hair of your clients’ dreams.
The Essential Volumizing Tools and Products
The essential tools needed to gain volume include great product, heat from a hairdryer, a brush and rollers.
For major volume, Courtney recommends a mousse, volume powder and hairspray (preferably aerosol). “I enjoy using mousse because of the spreadability and the added thickness it tends to give hair. The volume powder is amazing for the extra lift at the root area and really aids in the back-brushing. An aerosol is my go-to because of the quick drying time and it’s easy to work with while styling the hair,” she explains.
Her current go-to Keune products include Design Line Mousse Styling Forte, Design Line Volume Powder and Design Line Society Spray Extra Forte. Plus, especially for fine-hair clients, she loves Keune’s brand-new Care Absolute Volume regimen: “The shampoo is great for any client wanting volume and thickness; the conditioner is perfect for protecting the hair without weighing it down; the mousse is very lightweight and creates an airy look with tons of volume. Try pairing it with Care Derma Activate Thickening Spray for added density, strength and maximum volume,” she suggests.
The Perfect Volumizing Back-brushing Technique
- Dust a little bit of Volume Powder onto the hair from the scalp to about 1 to 2 inches from the scalp.
- Depending on the density of the hair, use a teasing brush for finer hair and a boar bristle for thicker hair.
- Start in the back of the area you are creating volume. Take a sub-section no more than 1-inch thick.
- Pull the hair straight up from the head and then lean it slightly forward.
- Bring your brush in at an angle towards the ceiling, then roll it down towards the scalp.
- Move the brush out and then come into the section again. Do this a couple of times to create a cushion towards the scalp. (You might create knots and tangles if you go straight up and down and stay in the same place.)
A Blowdrying Technique for Va-Va-Va-Volume
- Once the hair is about 60- to 75-percent dry, section it into three parts: a top section from the temples up, a middle section from the bottom of that section to the “bump” (occipital bone) on the back of the head, and a third section down to the nape of the neck.
- Start by applying approximately a ping-pong-ball size of mousse into your hands and then distribute it evenly throughout the nape section—from the scalp to ends—and begin blowdrying.
- For the most volume, use a round brush sized so that hair wraps no more than one to one-and-a-half times around.
- Begin drying by elevating the hair straight out from the head, using a slow motion and pointing the air down in the direction of the hair cuticle. “You don’t need a constant rolling motion; it’s more effective to work a section at a time with slower motion,” Courtney says. Dry the hair closest to the scalp first, then move the brush down towards the ends, using the same drying motion.
- Once you are finished drying the ends, don’t pull the hair straight down. Instead, allow the hair to take the shape of the curl from the brush and cool down in that shape.
- Clip each dry section as if it was still wrapped around the brush. “By having it cool down in that shape, you will really lock in the volume,” Courtney explains.
- When that section is finished, move on to the middle section. Apply the same amount of mousse from scalp to ends. This time, when drying the hair, elevate it straight up from the head. This will start to create more volume. “Try not to disrupt the previously dried section,” Courtney advises. Repeat the same controlled blowdrying technique.
- In the top section, apply the mousse from scalp to ends, and this time, over-direct the hair forward towards the front of the head. “Roll the hair down to the scalp. Look at where the brush meets the hair closest to the scalp. You will able to see if you’ll be creating lift by how the brush is sitting,” Courtney says.
- Continue until all hair is dry.
How to Use Rollers for the Most Lift
As an alternative to the full blowdrying technique above, or as a complement to it, you can also use rollers. “I love using velcro rollers! I like using them in the salon to wrap the hair around after I have used the blowdryer and round brush,” Courtney says.
- Use the same instructions as above for blowdrying, but get the hair about 75-percent dry before placing the rollers in the hair.
- The velcro rollers will then take the place of the brush. Dry the hair the rest of the way on the velcro roller instead of the brush.
- Once dry, hit them with the cool shot from the dryer to help lock in the volume.
- Leave the rollers in for about 10 to 20 minutes to allow the hair to fully set.
- When removing the rollers, slowly pull them out so that you can avoid tangles and frizz.
Have a question about these hair volumizing techniques? Let us know in comments below!
Don’t miss out on Keune’s September/October Absolute Volume regimen package promotion to achieve some serious volume! Contact your Keune distributor sales consultant regarding this promotion that includes shampoo, conditioner, mousse and velcro rollers at almost 50% of the regular price.