How to Use the New Keune Ultimate Blonde Range

By | November 17th, 2017

There’s no doubt that creating a beautiful blonde is pure craftsmanship. Now, with the extended Keune Ultimate Blonde range, there’s a solution for every blonde ambition! From cool to warm, rose to iridescent and platinum to natural, the new Ultimate Power Blonde Lifting Powder and three Ultimate Blonde Toners put the blonding power in your hands. Every blonde result is possible.

Find out the ins and outs of how to use Ultimate Blonde in this extensive Q&A from the experts at Keune:

keune ultimate blonde

What is the purpose of Ultimate Power Blonde Lift Powder and Ultimate Blonde Toners?

Designed with the stylist in mind, the Ultimate Power Blonde Lift Powder and the Ultimate Blonde Toners were created to help hairdressers achieve more levels of lift in one step, and have the convenience of more toning options to achieve trending blonde shades.

keune ultimate blonde

What are the new products’ benefits?

Ultimate Power Blonde Lift Powder can achieve up to eight levels of lift on natural hair, and it conditions the hair during the lifting process with wheat and silk proteins. The three new Ultimate Blonde Toners, like the rest of the Keune Semi Color line, contain Silsoft Technology, which offers condition and shine to the hair.

I want to lift the hair of my customer. Which Keune product would be best to use?

You can either choose the Lifting Creams (2000 and 3000 series) or the Lifting Powders (Ultimate Blonde Power Blonde, Cream Bleach or Magic Blonde). The Lifting Creams have a nourishing, oily cream base for gentle lifting. In addition, the 3000 series contains three Lifting Creams that immediately lift and tone in one step. The Lifting Powders are known for their fast and steady results.

I have chosen to work with a Lifting Powder. Which Keune product is best to use?

  Ultimate Power Blonde Cream Bleach Magic Blonde
What it is: The most powerful lightener for the highest lifting in shortest possible time. Lifting powder for gentle lifting and optimal time control. The lifting powder very suitable for full head application.
Recommended color level application:  

1-5

 

1-8 1-8
Advised developer: Scalp: 3% (10 vol.)  – 6% (20 vol.)

L& E:  3% (10 vol.)  – 6% (20 vol.) – 9% (30 vol.)

 

Scalp: 3% (10 vol.)  – 6% (20 vol.)

L& E:  3% (10 vol.)  – 6% (20 vol.) – 9% (30 vol.)

Scalp: 3% (10 vol.)  – 6% (20 vol.)

L& E:  3% (10 vol.)  – 6% (20 vol.) – 9% (30 vol.)

Levels of lift on natural hair: Up to 8 levels Up to 7 levels Up to 7 levels
Levels of lift on color treated hair:

 

 

 

 

 

Up to 7 levels 

Please note:

Only lift pre-colored hair up to level 5. Never lift pre–lightened hair.

Up to 6 levels Up to 6 levels
Mixing ratio: 1 part powder, 1.5 part developer (by weight) e.g. 50g powder, 75g developer. 1 part powder, 1.5 part developer (by weight) e.g. 50g powder, 75g developer. 1 part powder, 1.5 part developer (by weight) e.g. 50g powder, 75g developer.
Processing time: Up to 50 minutes

Please note:

Always check every five minutes

 

Up to 50 minutes

Please note:

Always check every five minutes

Up to 50 minutes

Please note:

Always check every five minutes

Suitable for highlights: Foiling is possible yet please be aware:

·       Foiling is time consuming so regular checking and in-between rinsing becomes even more important.

·       Some temperature increase can occur.

·       Be moderate in product use to avoid swelling.

·       Use the lowest developer possible.

 

Yes,

highly recommended

Foiling is possible yet please be aware:

·       Foiling is time consuming so regular checking and in-between rinsing becomes even more important.

·       Be moderate in product use to avoid swelling.

·       Use the lowest developer possible.

 

 

Suitable for full head: Yes, recommended Yes Yes, recommended
 
 

 

What are the dos and don’ts of using Ultimate Blonde?

Do: 

  • Check it every five minutes.
  • Only use Bond Fusion as a standalone treatment AFTER.
  • Use the lowest possible developer.
  • Use this on color height 1-5.

 

 

Don’t:

  • Do not use it on pre-lightened hair.
  • Do not use it on damaged hair.
  • Never change the mixing ratio, not even when you decide to add Bond Fusion.
  • Never use heat.

 

 

I want to use Bond Fusion to protect the hair strength of my customer optimally during the lightening service. How do I use Bond Fusion?

Cream Bleach: Add 1ml/g Phase 1 Bond Builder to 20 g of Cream Bleach (including Developer). Apply the recipe and process as usual. After rinsing and Tinta After Color Program Treatment, apply Phase 2 Bond Enhancer on towel-dried hair and process for 5-10 minutes.

Magic Blonde: Add 1ml/g Phase 1 Bond Builder to 20 g of Magic Blonde (including Developer). Apply the recipe and process as usual. After rinsing and Tinta After Color Program Treatment, apply Phase 2 Bond Enhancer on towel-dried hair and process for 5-10 minutes.

Ultimate Power Blonde: Although adding Bond Fusion to Ultimate Power Blonde gives a better result in terms of hair strength and conditioning after the treatment, compared to a standalone Ultimate Power Blonde treatment, the addition of Bond Fusion indeed causes a more liquid formula. As this can cause discomfort in use, we advise to use Bond Fusion as a standalone treatment AFTER the entire lifting process.

Why do we advise using Bond Fusion as a standalone treatment after using Ultimate Power Blonde?

The ingredients in the different products could cause a thinning/running effect. This has no effect on the end results, however, this could be experienced as unpleasant, so therefore we advise to only use it as a standalone treatment.

If using a Lifting Powder, why do I need to check my lifting process every five minutes?

You need to check your lifting process every five minutes to maintain an optimal hair condition and to control the gradual lifting process.

Why do I need to use the lowest possible developer?

We advise using the lowest possible developer for two reasons: To control the lifting process and to maintain and guarantee the best possible hair condition.

Why is it recommended to use Ultimate Power Blonde on color height 1-5?

Ultimate Power Blonde has the ability to lift up to 8 color levels. Therefore, using it on a higher color level is not necessary.

What should I keep in mind when I use Ultimate Power Blonde on a color height 6-8?

You could consider using Ultimate Power Blonde on a color height 6-8 when speed in processing time is your main goal. Instead of the regular lightening time, you can expect a much faster lightened result. Please note that in this case, it is extremely important to check the lightening process frequently and stop the treatment in time.

Why can’t I use Ultimate Power Blonde on pre-lightened hair?

The structure of pre-lightened hair is already fragile and therefore not suitable for Ultimate Power Blonde.

Can I use heat to speed the lifting process?

We strongly advise to never use heat during the lifting process. Adding heat will contribute to an uncontrolled lifting process.

When using foils, why is so important to continuously check the lifting progress?

Foiling can be a time-consuming process. Depending on the number of foils, by the time the last foils are being applied, the first series of foils can be overdue already. Please keep in mind that the processing time begins when applied in the hair. Therefore, please check all foils in a structured manner.

Does the Ultimate Blonde line use ammonia?

The Ultimate Blonde Toners can be found in the Keune Semi Color line and this whole line is ammonia free. Ultimate Blonde Power Lift contains low ammonia.

 

Additionally, here are a few case studies to help guide you with using Ultimate Blonde:

 

Case 1: A customer has a natural color level of 3 and desires a cool blonde tone in a color level 9. What do we do?

  • Use Ultimate Power Blonde due to the natural color level 3 (ideal color level 1-5)
  • Always start with a strand test. If the hair is damaged, we strongly advise not to perform the lifting treatment
  • Mixing ratio 1:1.5
  • Start by coloring the lengths and ends with 6% (20 vol.)
  • Check every five minutes
  • When the desired color level of 9 is nearly reached, (7-8) color the roots using 3% (10 vol.)
  • Check every five minutes until the desired color level is reached. Maximum processing time is 50 minutes in total.
  • Rinse the hair and treat it with Tinta After Color Program
  • Depending on the clients wish, the achieved color level and the warmth of the hair, tone the hair with Semi Color in combination with Semi Activator
  • Process Semi Color for 20 minutes
  • Rinse the hair and treat it with Tinta After Color Program (shampoo and Balsam)
  • To repair and nourish the hair to the fullest after a lifting treatment, we strongly advise using Bond Fusion as a standalone treatment
  • Apply on towel-dried hair
  • Process for 10 minutes and rinse thoroughly
  • Mixing ratio standalone treatment: 1:2

1 part Bond Fusion Phase 1

2 parts Bond Fusion Phase 2

  • Always advise Bond Fusion Phase 3 for home maintenance and as an extension to the salon treatment

Case 2: A customer has a natural color level of 6 and desires a color level 9. What do we do?

  • Use Magic Blonde due to the natural color level 6 (Ideal Color level 1-8)
  • Always start with a strand test. If the hair is damaged, we strongly advise not to perform the lifting treatment
  • Mixing ratio 1:1.5
  • Start by coloring the lengths and ends with 3% (10 vol.)
  • Use Bond Fusion Phase 1
  • Mixing ratio 1:20
  • 1 ml. Bond Fusion Phase 1 on 20 ml. total recipe
  • Check every five minutes until the desired color level is reached. Maximum processing time is 50 minutes in total.
  • Rinse the hair and treat it with Tinta After Color Program
  • Use Bond Fusion Phase 2 on towel-dried hair and process for 5-10 minutes
  • Rinse thoroughly
  • Always advise Bond fusion Phase 3 for home maintenance and as an extension to the salon treatment

Case 3: A customer with virgin hair has a desire for highlights. What do we do?

  • When highlighting the hair, we only advise using Cream Bleach 3% (10 vol.) or 6% (20 vol.) depending on the natural color level
  • Other lifting powders have the tendency to swell, overheat and become a liquid substance when mixed with a high developer in combination with foils
  • Always start with a strand test. If the hair is damaged, we strongly advise not to perform the lifting treatment
  • Mixing ratio 1:1.5
  • Start by highlighting the hair, beginning in the nape area
  • Use Bond Fusion Phase 1
  • Mixing ratio 1:20
  • 1 ml. Bond Fusion Phase 1 on 20 ml. total recipe
  • Check every five minutes until the desired color level is reached. Maximum processing time is 50 minutes in total
  • Always check the first and the last foil
  • Rinse the hair and treat it with Tinta After Color Program
  • Use Bond Fusion Phase 2 on towel-dried hair and process for 5-10 minutes
  • Rinse thoroughly
  • Always advise Bond Fusion Phase 3 for home maintenance and as an extension to the salon treatment

Case 4: To protect the hair as much as possible during a lifting treatment, I would like to add Bond Fusion. What is the proper application technique?

Application of Bond Fusion with Cream Bleach:

  • Add Bond Fusion Phase 1 to the total recipe (developer + powder)
  • Mixing ratio is 1:20
  • 1 part Bond Fusion Phase 1
  • 20 parts total recipe
  • Apply the recipe
  • Process as usual
  • Rinse the hair
  • Treat it with Tinta After Color Program (Shampoo + Balsam)
  • Use Bond Fusion Phase 2 on towel-dried hair and process for 5-10 minutes
  • Rinse the hair thoroughly
  • Always advise Bond Fusion Phase 3 for home maintenance and as an extension to the salon treatment

Application of Bond Fusion with Magic Blonde:

  • Add Bond Fusion Phase 1 to the total recipe (developer + powder)
  • Mixing ratio is 1: 20
  • 1 part Bond Fusion Phase 1
  • 20 parts total recipe
  • Apply the recipe
  • Process as usual
  • Rinse the hair
  • Treat it with Tinta After Color Program (Shampoo + Balsam)
  • Use Bond Fusion Phase 2 on towel-dried hair and process for 5-10 minutes
  • Rinse the hair thoroughly
  • Always advise Bond Fusion Phase 3 for home maintenance and as an extension to the salon treatment

Application of Bond Fusion with Ultimate Power Blonde:

We strongly advise using the standalone Bond Fusion treatment if using Ultimate Power Blonde.

  • Mixing ratio is 1:2
  • 1 part Bond Fusion Phase 1
  • 2 parts Bond Fusion Phase 2
  • After a lifting treatment, treat the hair with Tinta After Color Program (Shampoo + Balsam)
  • Apply Bond Fusion standalone on towel-dried hair and process for 15 minutes
  • Rinse the hair thoroughly
  • Always advise Bond Fusion Phase 3 for home maintenance and as an extension to the salon treatment

Case 5: A customer has a natural color level of 5 and her lengths and ends are a color level 10. She wants to lift the root regrowth. What do we do?

  • Ultimate Power Blonde 3 of 6% depending on the thickness of the hair
  • Use Ultimate Power Blonde due to the natural color level 3 (ideal color level 1-5)
  • Always start with a strand test. If the hair is damaged, we strongly advise not to perform the lifting treatment
  • Mixing ratio 1:1.5
  • Before starting the treatment, apply Protein Spray on lengths and ends
  • Protein Spray saturates the lengths and ends and protects it against unwanted overlap of color
  • Apply Lifting Powder on the root regrowth
  • Cut the coloring brush in half for a clean, neat and easier application
  • Rinse the hair
  • Treat it with Tinta After Color Program (Shampoo + Balsam)

 

 

Happy blonding!

Have any other questions about Keune Ultimate Blonde products? Let us know and we’re happy to answer them!

Ready to take your blonde education to the next level? Check out the next Keune Advanced Academy Blonde Out course


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